As the morning mist blurs the view of the sea I relish my morning oatmeal and a glass of Vitamin C on the ceramic tiled table which adorns the patio outside the kitchen of our Airbnb.
As the mist dissolves, Hannah and I prepare for a day in Positano, seventeen hundred steps below us. Today I wear my comfortable sandals with a long, flowing, linen dress so hopefully I don’t look like a tourist. It helps that it will keep me cool in the heat as well.
We are still adjusting to the time change (six hours ahead) and those roosters that wake us at 3:00 a.m. in the morning. No backpacks today, just the camera and a small purse with cross body straps. The camera may give me away (or the blonde hair). Anyway, both of us have picked up a few Italian words: Buongiorno, Ciao, Bona Sera, Bella, Quanto, Grazie, as well as piazza names that are important to us.
Since we had taken a few of the stone steps last night we knew exactly where to start our mile long walk via the stairwell next to a small shop across the main road and just a short distance from our Airbnb in Montepertuso. It would take us almost 45 minutes to walk down to Positano, maybe longer if you consider how picturesque that walk is; from towering cliffs, to stone step switchbacks, to mailboxes set in stone, to cacti, to the multicolored homes that drip like paint along the cliffs of Positano, to the views through heather and myrtle and fenced in gardens, and to the majolica tiled dome of the Cathedral of Sana Maria Assunta.
We arrive above Positano, at Arienzo, where another 15 minutes of walking will take us along cobblestone streets and then some paved streets into the heart of Positano. As we passed the Cathedral we are thankful for the pictures we took from above while still on those stone steps. After that thigh master workout we will definitely be taking the bus back to Montepertuso later in the day.
Positano is a bit more crowded as compared to our sleepy little hamlet of Montepertuso but not nearly as busy as if it were a “normal year.” Our first stop is at Ceramica Assunta S.R.L., one of three such stores in the region “producing and selling handmade pottery objects since 1948.” I have my eye on a Christmas ornament (lemon shaped of course). Hannah has her eye on a magnet (Positano scene) and a dish for dips. If only I had more room in my suitcase. We make our purchases and make our way to Sapari e Prafumi di (all things lemon) where I find the most unique half lemon shaped candle wrapped in tulle with a ribbon. I would say it’s the best 3.00 euros I spent while in the City Centre. Hannah bought one as well. As you walk in the door to this colorful shop the smell of lemons is almost therapeutic and it makes us realize we are overdue for a late lunch. But first, we walk down to the beach (Spiaggi Grande) wearing our sandals to the water’s edge as the black sand is gritty underfoot. The water is definitely a Mediterranean warm although we are dipping our toes in the Tyrrhenian Sea. Mixed amongst the black sand is a bit of sea glass (very small pieces).
There is a fountain (faucet) where we clean our legs off as well as our shoes. With the slight breeze and warm air we dry out quickly. Now to eat! The first little café (outdoors) is a “no” as the owner/manager was quite unfriendly and since there are kiosks where lemon slushies are available we decide to indulge in them once again (5.00 euros for two). Then we find a café/shop next to the Tabacchi store where not only do we get gelato but I also purchase our bus tickets for later. As we walk among and through the many colorful clothing stores and ones of artwork/ceramics a bench free of people comes into view. We sit and enjoy our gelato cones. I have peanut butter flavored.
We find a little sanctuary where we can dine inside at Elisir Di Positano Cafe & Salads. The ladies here are extra friendly and our food was delicious. We both had Paninis (ham, tomato, Basil & provolone cheese). We also had Cokes and still water.
We spent just a little too much time at Elisi Di Positano restaurant but it was worth it because of the atmosphere. This meant we missed our 4:20 p.m. bus to Montepertuso. No worries. We just wait at the bus stop for the next time of 5:20 p.m. Since I had purchased our tickets earlier and I was holding onto them, two guys ask where we purchased them. Hannah and I both pointed to the Tabacchi shop and say, “right there.”
Although the bus is quite full it sure beats going back up all those stone steps. There are so many stops before we reach Piazza Cappella. It’s been another beautiful day in Italy and as I look out from the patio where I started my day and end it, I admire the lights that dangle like a thousand strings of luminous pearls from the homes that hug the terraced cliff sides.